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In this era of internet culture, runway collections circulate in a steady loop—continuously screenshotted, restacked, pinned, and re-pinned over and over (and over). They may read as edifying inspiration, yet more often than not are destined to remain purely aspirational, never quite becoming tangible in our own wardrobes.
With one fashion week constantly collapsing into another combined with social media flattening everything into digestible content, there’s little time to properly absorb what’s showcased before it’s reinterpreted, replicated, and filtered through the fast-fashion cycle, only to be discarded as our attention span shifts once again to something newer and fresher and more viral.
Staying constantly plugged in, waiting for the next trend, the hot new item to add to cart, quietly erodes the development of taste!!! — something that has become more crave-able than ever in this stage of constant information.
Personal style *fart noise* isn’t formed at the pace of “the feed.” It comes from experimentation, discernment, and lots and lots of repetition. It requires sitting with an idea long enough to understand why it resonates, going down a research rabbit hole, study! reflection! A lack of fear to get and feel ugly! When you identify patterns in what you return to — certain proportions, textiles, colors, references — the impulse to constantly add to cart softens because you’re no longer chasing new! now! novelty!; you’re building long-lasting coherence.
SO today we’re going to dive into the fashion deep end and take a closer look at Matthieu Blazy’s introductory collections at Chanel, a study in how a house so expansive and historically loaded can be reimagined as wearable, relevant, and fresh, even while echoing the same distinguishable motifs it’s been known for since its inception. Blazy’s references nod to fashion history without getting lost in it, leaving plenty to dissect and room to layer in your own personality.
Personally, I’ve never seen myself reflected in the Chanel traditions of old — rarely in the work of Karl Lagerfeld, Virginie Viard, or even Coco Chanel. Blazy’s approach feels more open. He treats the archive as material rather than mandate. The woman he envisions feels current: composed, a little practical, slightly off-center and a little “weird” (and campy) in a way that keeps it interesting.
There’s no need to rush out and buy the most expensive, hippest, newest thing to try your hand at being a Blazy girl. There’s a sea of vintage and secondhand eager to live a new chapter of life in your closet as you channel Chanel, and I’m here to help you find it.
Let’s get into it.
THE COLOR STORY
Let’s first take a moment to admire the main colors woven throughout Blazy’s three collections thus far with Chanel. Color theory (shades/tones/pairings) is always the first thing I register when reacting to a runway show, before I even begin to study the clothes, silhouettes, or proportions, etc etc etc
It’s likely because color is what I struggle with most in my own wardrobe (and what challenged me most in art classes). I love looking at ✨COLOR✨, but combining it in unexpected, interesting ways doesn’t always come naturally to me! Being able to clearly see the key takeaway hues in a collection helps—it tells me what to look for/hunt down/how those pieces might work with what I already own and what I’m consistently drawn to.
I love that Blazy worked with variations of fundamentally the same color palette without it leaning too repetitious and boring. It makes each collection feel cohesive to one another while still showcasing different levels of occasions and dressing.
THE CHANEL LOOK
Bring back the skirt suit! Traditional Chanel suiting has felt anywhere from overly sophisticated, stuffy, and matronly to a little gaudy, flashy, and, dare I say *whispers* tacky. I love that Blazy played with textiles and proportions to make his Chanel girl feel a little artsy, a little edgy, a little effortless, and maybe even a little punk rock. (That red woven raffia suit on the right somehow manages to feel flirty/light/feminine and sexy/seductive/badass? Incroyable!)
The key is a boxier jacket on the shorter/cropped side of things (something a tailor might be able to help you with!) and a skirt length that’s either mini or midi, lean away from the traditional above the knee pencil silhouette, which will feel too mature. (You can also mix and match with similar patterns and colors, like the pink suit in the third look.)
Consider switching out the buttons for something bold, big and vintage, or adding a sparkly, textured or even rhinestoned trim (and don’t forget a big floral-esque brooch!) Maybe just take a pair of really sharp scissors and go blunt/fray the edges yourself….!
And if you’re looking for more skirt suiting inspiration, let Ruby guide you…
Brands and keywords to search: St. John (old school, iconic, incredible quality), Adolfo, Louis Feraud, tweed, boucle, fringe, wool, 1960s skirt suit, 1980s skirt suit
left look:
vintage gold tone turquoise earrings ($27, purchase on eBay)
st. john metallic plaid jacket (fem s, $262.50)
i love love love this jacket, someone adopt it!another tomorrow pleated cream midi skirt (fem xl, $138.75)
1950s white faux croc leather purse ($85)
gooooood vintage pursemanu atelier black and white square toe pumps (fem 7, $165)
right look:
vintage black and white st. john suit (fem 2, $260, purchase on eBay)
there’s some tailoring potential to make this more Blazy-esque, maybe taking out some darts or a more mini skirt?1950s black sheer lace panel blouse (fem xs, $128)
vintage judith leiber burgundy snakeskin purse ($499, purchase on eBay)
nine west pony hair pumps (fem 8.5, $25.99, purchase on eBay) (another here)
(moving left to right, clockwise-ish)
christopher john rogers green long tweed coat (fem s, $647.50)
richard barr gold tone skirt suit (see measurements, $245, purchase on eBay)
adolfo trimmed multi-color skirt suit (vintage fem m, $365.87, purchase on eBay)
this color combo scratches the Blazy color palette itch in just the right waychristian lacroix patchwork colored fringe blazer (see measurements, $395)
FUNst.john gold trim cropped tweed bolero (fem s, $157.50)
i just know someone here can make this bolero cool (words i never thought i’d say)tweed black piping button cardigan (fem s, $47)
st.john black tweed blazer (fem m, $188)
tweed illusion silk skirt suit (vintage fem 10, $19.99, purchase on eBay)
etro red tweed blazer (fem m, $233.75)
good silhouette me thinks1960s pink trim tweed skirt suit (fem xs, $79.99, purchase on eBay)
navy and purple boxy plaid jacket (fem m, $60)
mint green long tweed jacket (fem m, $45)
bootleg chanel pink and blue blazer (see measurements, $155)
kind of obsessed with this bootleg chanel moment
A HINT OF KITSCH, A TOUCH OF TACKY, AND ALL OVER PATTERN
I knew I really truly loved Blazy’s vision when I started noticing the repetition of novelty throughout his looks, something I haven’t really seen at Chanel, at least not this intentionally. I’m especially drawn to his commitment to matte sequins, abundant beading, and truly wacky, wild prints and patterns. That beaded dog print suit? Insane.
There’s a lot of elements here to dissect and play around with — and a boatload of vintage finds to give this same energy!
Brands and keywords to search: judith ann, lillie rubin, oleg cassini, ashish, 1960s beaded, 1960s sequin, sequin animal print
✿ ✿ ✿ ✿ ✿ ✿ ✿ ✿ ✿ ✿ ✿ ✿ ✿ ✿ ✿ ✿ ✿ ✿ ✿ ✿ ✿ ✿ ✿ ✿ ✿ ✿ ✿ ✿ ✿ ✿ ✿ ✿ ✿ ✿ ✿
left look:
judith ann bronze sequin print skirt suit (see measurements, $375, purchase on eBay)
i need you to show up to the function in a fully sequined skirt suit!!!sezane black ruffle hem turtleneck (fem m, $195)
vintage chanel double chain velvet flap bag ($1613, ships from Japan, purchase on eBay)
celine burgundy ankle strap heels (fem 8.5, $325.50)
right look:
(this might just be my favorite look i recreated, and i will attempt to wear something like this myself!)
1980s tan feedsack bomber jacket (masc m, $363.75 on sale)
feedsack button up shirt (masc m/l, $187.50 on sale)
this seller upcycles vintage textiles à la Bode (without the price tag!)black onyx and marcasite dangle earrings ($29.93, purchase on eBay)
d&g suede midi skirt (fem s, $276)
marni black sequin black purse ($202.50)
funchristian louboutin two tone ankle strap pumps (fem 10, $416.25)
(moving clockwise-ish, starting top left)
st john rosette animal print zip jacket (fem l, $99)
1960s sequin animal print vest (see measurements, $50)
pair this down with just a white tee, a loose jean, a chanel cap toe pumplillie rubin polka dot sequin skirt suit (fem l, $75, purchase on eBay)
1980s zebra beaded silk blouse (fem m, $150)
maybe with a simple black flowy midi skirt?yellow and black beaded sleeveless blouse (see measurements, $35)
oversized black and white cocoon jacket (fem s, $650)
st.john purple animal print jacket (fem m, $60)
black and gold sequin long sleeve tiger dress (see measurements, $315)
cat tapestry zip jacket (ask for measurements, $199, purchase on eBay)
worth searching for vintage “tapestry” jackets to find some adorable novelty options — maybe add some sparkle trim to them? some 1950s rhinestone brooches?neiman marcus orange and black zebra jacket (fem s, $150)
gold and black cheetah print sequin cardigan (fem l, $59)
oleg cassini green and black sequin long sleeve top (fem s, $45)
black and cream swirl sequin cardigan (fem s, $148)
ashish gold and black leopard sequin top (fem l, $488.75)
BEADS AND CROCHET AND TEXTURE GALORE
Blazy plays with texture in a way that makes every piece feel approachable, even when it’s priceless couture. The average normal human can still imagine slipping it on and feeling like ones self, which isn’t an easy feat when designing with the Chanel woman in mind.
I especially love his approach to knitwear, how he makes it feel elegant and elevated. The heavy beading and sequins show up here again, but less kitschy and more refined, opulent rather than overdone.
left look:
1970s amber resin necklace ($97, purchase on eBay)
90s newport news mustard yellow knit dress (fem s, $68)
tod’s red croc leather pumps (fem 6, $270)
right look:
sterling silver starburst earrings ($97, purchase on eBay)
black knit skirt set (fem s, $78)
celine red embossed ankle strap pump (fem 10, $535.50)
left look:
vintage red sequin beaded dress (see measurements, $55)
art deco white beaded flapper necklace ($67.92, purchase on eBay)
1950s ostrich feather cocktail hat ($269.99, purchase on eBay)
this! hat! is! incredible!chanel cap toe pumps (fem 11, $895)
right look:
mariquita masterson zebra blown glass earrings ($300, purchase on eBay)
i’ve had these in my watchlist forever, so so special1960s green spiderweb crochet gown (vintage fem s, $1500)
of course the only full shot of this dress is terrible quality, but this thing is heirloom worthy! absolutely stunning, and would be insane for spring wedding guest look, truly one-of-a-kind vintagemarlies grace white wood tassel clutch (new, $495)
chanel satin cap toe pumps (fem 7, $260)
the heel on these!!!!!
(moving clockwise-ish, starting top left)
1960s beaded hem skirt set (fem m, $285)
this set is so sweet and precious — with a simple mule heel? elegant1970s black sequin trim blouse (fem m, $40)
1980s does art deco beaded skirt set (fem s, $59.83, purchase on eBay)
black carmen marc valvo lace beaded evening jacket (fem 8, $56)
with a black wide leg trouser and a cap toe pump?judith ann sequin polka dot drop waist dress (fem s, $49.99, purchase on eBay)
black and white floral lace blouse (see measurements, ships from UK, $52.61 on sale)
almost exactly Blazy couture, no?black sleeveless art deco style sequin dress (fem 1x, $49.50, purchase on eBay)
black lattice pattern tassel bolero blazer (fem s, $120, in 6 carts!)
!!!!!adolfo for saks black sleeveless sequin skirt set (fem m, $35, purchase on eBay)
ann taylor black and white patterned skirt (fem 6, $58)
1980s judith ann black rhinestone beaded dress (see measurements, $245, purchase on eBay)
1960s black sequin skirt suit (see measurements, $79, purchase on eBay)
(moving clockwise-ish, starting top left)
1950s sequin cropped evening jacket (vintage fem l/xl, $84)
1980s ivory long beaded sequin flapper dress (fem m, $600)
the bow on this needs to go, but this has the potential to feel very artsy cool girl Chanel bride with a funky shoe and a cool hairpiece1960s gold sequin skirt set (see measurements, $85)
1960s white all over sequin cardigan (fem m, $68, purchase on eBay)
blush pink sequin long blazer (fem 8, $350, purchase on eBay)
stunning! gorgeous! the button details!1960s silk sequin trim skirt set (fem m, $84)
1960s beaded sleeveless top (fem m, $149)
white sheer lace texture skirt set (fem l, $125)
okay this is weird and maybe a little overpriced (seller accepts offers) but i feel like it has couture-esque potential for someone ready to craft!lillie rubin gold beaded lace waist tie evening dress (fem l, $495)
another dress that can easily feel artful bride with the right accessoriesvintage neiman marcus short sleeve tiered scalloped dress (fem s, $118)
paired with a classic cap toe pump?1960s white beaded lace fringe trimmed cardigan (see measurements, $1050)
deco style beaded evening dress (fem 16, see measurements, $128)
she’s soooooo good yummmmm
NORMCORE
This Chanel girl is just like us! She wears worn-in jeans! a half-zip sweater! a relaxed suit! I love how easy, breezy, and beautiful these looks feel, while still being polished and put together.
It feels relatable to the professional working person in 2026, yet still echoes the house’s history. And I have no doubt it will feel just as classic in the future!
Brands and keywords to search: 90s minimalist suit, vintage boxy suit, cropped blazer suit, vintage donna karan, talbots, st. john, brooks brothers, old department store brands — neiman marcus, saks fifth ave, bonwit teller
left look:
1980s kenzo cropped blazer suit (fem m, $165, purchase on eBay)
this suit set is killer — if you don’t, i will!sterling silver starburst earrings ($97, purchase on eBay)
giambattista valli pink sheer lace panel blouse (fem m, $325)
carson pirie scott pink beaded flower clutch ($30, purchase on eBay)
comes in original box!chanel cap toe mule heels (fem 6.5, $391.50)
right look:
black beaded long duster vest (see measurements, $72)
insane!!!!vintage chanel black bowler bag purse ($596)
okay, cool and worn-in and a little beat up but probably one of the better Chanel bags i’ve ever seensaint laurent pointy cap toe pumps (fem 10, $325, coming soon)
jeans and tee — dealer’s choice!
(moving clockwise-ish, starting top left)
st. john raw hem cropped blazer (fem 3XL, see measurements, $92)
YESst. john black mandarin collar button blazer (fem m, $87)
vintage black velvet glitter blazer (see measurements, $38)
vintage herbert grossman gold button skirt suit (see measurements, $40, purchase on eBay)
sequin collar cropped jacket (vintage fem 14, $108, purchase on eBay)
christian lacroix brown houndstooth blazer (fem xs, $225)
YES YESst. john black long blazer with buttons (fem l, $71.25)
vintage black white collar evening jacket (fem 10, $25, purchase on eBay)
valentino grey houndstooth blazer (fem xs, $147)
SILK AND SHIRTING
Blazy’s sheer chiffon looks feel a bit like quiet rebellion for the traditional Chanel woman? a house so often defined by tweed, structure, and polish, his use of translucence introduces softness and movement in a way that feels unexpectedly modern and definitely ethereal. Scrolling through old Lagerfeld collections, I never quite saw this level of fluidity.
The sheerness doesn’t read precious or overly romantic; it feels effortless, a little undone and messy! It’s perfectly imperfect. Which also goes for the boxy, untucked shirting paired with dramatic skirting.
Brands and keywords to search: sheer, silk, chiffon, 1970s chiffon, 1960s chiffon, cape dress, lillie diamond, lillie rubin, miss elliette, tom and linda platt, charvet shirt
left look:
1950s silk feather print pink blouse (fem m, $36) (honorable mention here)
gucci silk chiffon pink skirt (fem xs, $211.25)
anndra neen gold caged purse ($499)
this bag would be $8,000 were it Chanel…chanel satin cap toe pumps (fem 7, $260)
right look:
sterling silver starburst earrings ($97, purchase on eBay)
men’s charvet white button down shirt (masc l, $249, purchase on eBay)
bonus points if you embroider something on itvintage jessica mcclintock black bustle skirt (see measurements, $144.06, purchase on eBay)
this skirt is awesome and definitely needs a night out on the townjoan rivers black faux croc leather purse ($20, purchase on eBay)
proenza schouler glove pumps
these sold and now I cannot find them anywhere, but you get the point…a round artful toe really makes these classic silhouettes feel funky and fresh
(moving clockwise-ish, starting top left)
1970s pink sheer balloon sleeve sequin blouse (see measurements, $388)
1970s coral chiffon tie waist dress (fem s, $122)
1970s pink chiffon cowl neck dress (fem s, $220)
tom and linda platt orange tiered silk dress (fem 10, $98.99, purchase on eBay)
1910s pink silk embroidered blouse (see measurements, $109)
red chiffon long cardigan (fem m, $45)
dries van noten coral silk skirt (fem s, $325)
1960s red paisley swirl silk chiffon dress (fem s, $110) (wait I found it for $49!)
sandro pink lace skirt (fem m, $81)
1960s sheer purple cardigan (vintage fem l, $98.20)
perhaps with a plain white tee under?tom and linda platt fuschia silk dress (fem 1x!, $48.42, purchase on eBay)
(moving clockwise-ish, starting top left)
1920s yellow art deco dress (fem xs, $275)
issey miyake blue sheer wool dress (fem s, $297.50)
this color is !!!1950s baby blue sheer silk crop blouse (vintage fem m, $71.25 on sale)
vintage emanuel ungaro green skirt set (see measurements, $129, purchase on eBay)
yes yes yes yes yes yes yesjessica howard blue chiffon cape dress (fem 22W, $39.99, purchase on eBay)
1960s yellow floral silk dress and jacket (fem s, $134)
1970s green capelet overlay dress (fem s, $60)
keni valenti sheer yellow dress set (fem xs, $545)
miss elliette tinkerbell sleeve green dress (see measurements, $52)
miss elliette yellow pleated angel sleeve chiffon dress (see measurements, $159)
blue chiffon bolero jacket (see measurements, $35)
(moving clockwise-ish, starting top left)
metallic gold thread chiffon overlay dress (fem m, $125)
black sheer beaded trim tunic (fem m, $56)
vintage escada black silk tiered skirt (fem XL, $70)
1950s black cocktail dress with silk tails (fem xs, $258)
1960s custom couture long sleeve sequin gown (fem xs, $1675)
i couldn’t resist putting this in the line-up — an absolutely gorg vintage gemblack silk chiffon beaded cape dress (fem 8, $95)
so Blazy-esque and under $100
donna karan black organza turtleneck sleeveless top (fem 10, $139, purchase on eBay)
1960s black caftan gown (see measurements, $145)
kind of want this, ngls.l. fashions black cowl neck dress (see measurements, $40)
frankie shop brown organza skirt (fem s, $156)
tom and linda platt black pleated skirt dress (fem m, $62.99, purchase on eBay)
black beaded chiffon sheer cardigan (fem m, $78)
1960s lilli diamond black cape dress (see measurements, $149, purchase on eBay)
PHEW!
Well, there ya have it.
May you have a wild adventure secondhand shopping your way into Blazy’s (genius) brain.
Until next time,
xo,
G
Master class at somehow distilling the throughlines of this new era of chanel and finding the vintage versions for us lucky readers!!! this had me bookmarking so many specific pieces, saved searches, and best of all, made me desperate to play around with pieces i own in new ways!!! 💗💗💗
There goes Glenn just spending hours casually pulling a priceless list of exquisite vintage treasures for us.
This is SO good - thank you!